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Tuesday, March 28, 2017

Clearing Water Clogged in Unreachable Pipe

28 March 2017


We renovated our kitchen and found ourselves  in a difficult situation where we could not  reach the outflow pipe to clear the water clog caused by sludge.   Here is how we resolve it.


What happened?


Our old kitchen layout allowed us to remove the cupboard that is sitting ontop of the floor trap.  With the cupboard removed,  we could lower one of our hands to reach the outflow pipe where to could insert a hard spring rod or guide the pipe cleaner wire so that it could thread the pipe trap to reach the outflow pipe as shown



After renovating the kitchen,  we fixed the kitchen cabinet ontop of the floor trap.  We allowed an opening of about 13 inches wide,   just  enough to reach the top of the floor trap to insert something hard to clear the vertical pipe.



During one water clog,  we found the outflow pipe choked again.  We could not use the pipe cleaner nor any  hard spring rod as we no longer able to use our hand to reach the inlet of the outflow pipe.  The next available option opened was to reach the pipe trap from the lower floor which is about 12 feet below us.


The Solution


After going through our workshop to get some ideas,  we found a piece of 20 mm PVC pipe in which we managed to bend the end of the pipe to form a curve bend as shown.

With that piece of PVC pipe,  we could then guide the wire of our pipe cleaner from the top of the floor trap and threaded through the pipe trap to reach the choked outflow pipe.

  


4 Sept 2017 update

The head of the pipe cleaner is usually expanded from the spring wire.  Sometimes,  the head is too small to clear the sludge completely in large pipes.   Soon after cleaning,  the pipe will be clogged again.

The solution is to attach a cutter to the head as shown



The cutter was formed by cutting a length of 60 mm long 20mm PVC pipe with one end of it splitted and opened as shown.  The cutter must be attached to the  pipe cleaner with metal wires,  making sure it  will not be detached during the cleaning process.

How to Extract Water from Reef Tank without drillings of holes

29 March 2017


Reef tanks will  need fairly high water flow rate and an external pump sump is usually required so as to install a large water pump as well as other equipment such as chiller,  filter medias etc.  Large amount of water  will have to be extracted from the tanks.  The conventional way is to drill larger holes on either the top side of the back glass panel or the bottom of the tank.   This article will try to introduce another method.


What's Needed?


1.   1/2 piece of 4 feet x 2 feet perspex sheet available from any shop that sells lighting diffuser for the lighting fitting;

2.   2 numbers of 15" 20 mm diameter PVC tube

3.   2 numbers of straight joint for aquarium air distribution pipe

4.   Industrial Liquid Thinner

How to Construct?


 a.  Overflow box 

1.  Cut the perspex sheet to form a box of about 10" x 3"; make sure one of the back sheet of the box is long enough for a bend to be formed to hang over the edge of the water tank;

2.  Use heat gun or oven to soften the perspex of the longer back sheet with heat good enough to bend the perspex to form the hanger;

3.   Cut the front piece to form a row of grooves or small opening to allow overflow water to flow into the box;

4.   Assemble and join the 4 piece together using the industrial thinner.  Allow enough thinner to run to and fro at the joint so as to seal the joints properly;


b.  Over Flow Pipes

1.   Heat bend the 20 mm PVC pipe in the center enough to form a U-shape tube as shown in the picture;  The U tube should have a bend radius large enough for it to be placed over the hanger of the box;

2.   A flexible spring or PVC tube is necessary to ensure a smooth bend.  I used one piece of chest expander spring;


3.   Drill a hole large enough to insert the air tube straight joint at the top of PVC bend to form the air nipples


How It works?


When water is pumped into the tank,  the excess water will overflow into the overflow box.  It will be sucked up through the U-tube continuously.

But before any water can flow through the U tube,  the tube must be primed and fill the entire tube with water.

Water priming is make simple by plugging up the open end of the U tube and then suck the air out from the air nipple.  As soon as the water has filled up the U tube,  plug the air nipple and water will flow continuously and naturally.

 Other Relevant Sites
tinyurl  :https://tinyurl.com/ydfaloww

Lower Reef Tank Temperature Without Chiller

28 March 2017

One forumer in the Singapore Reef Forum asked how to lower the water temperature in a reef tank without using a chiller.   Another forumer asked for a picture of such construction.  The article will tell how.

What's Needed?


a)   To form a Cooling Tower

1.  2 pieces of 4 feet x 2 feet plastic sheets that are  available from the shop that sells office light fittings.  I got mine free when my office was under renovation.
2.  One pump sump of about 1.5 feet x 3 feet or other dimension to suit requirement
3.  Industrial liquid thinner

b)  To construct a dry filtration media within the tower

1.   About 3 rolls of twine string paper


2.   1/4" plastic tubing or plenty of plastic straws

3.    Few pieces of  10 mm diameter PVC pipe each cut to about 10" length


How to Construct?

a)   Description

As I have  retired the cooling tower a long time ago. The following sketch will give some idea on how to construct the cooling tower which was located at the back of the reef tank with a pump sump below the tank.



The tower was about 4 feet tall and filled with loose packed dry media made from flatten twine paper string that has gaps to allow air and water to pass through them.  


Water is fed into the top section using 2 Nos of 20 mm U shape plastic tube and overflow reservoirs without drilling any hole in the reef tank (link) The water is then allow to go through the rain shower plate, which is basically a plastic sheet full of small holes.

 b)  Constructing the Tower

1.  Cut plastic sheet into 10"x 4 feet strips and glue them up to shape using the industrial thinner.  As thinner will normally dissolve the surface of the plastic,  it will provide a good joint without using any other glue.  To form a good seal at the joint,  run a little amount thinner alongside the joint,  to and fro several times.  Allow  the plastic joints to dry over night.

2.  Cut a piece of plastic sheet and drill as many holes of about 1/8" to form the rain shower plate to be inserted on the top section to form the rain shower.  Allow at least 6" clearance between the fan and the rain shower plate.

3.  Allow one empty section for air inlet as shown in the sketch 

c)  Constructing the filter media

1.  Unroll the twine paper string and flatten the string out so that it can be rolled loosely together again with plenty of  1/4" tube or the plastic straws inserted in between to form another roll of filter media that can be filled the inside of the entire cooling tower.   The tube or plastic straws should be as many as possible to ensure the papers will be  loosely packed and that air and water will be allowed to flow freely through the filter media.

2.  Place twine paper rolls inside tower horizontally with each roll separated by the 10 mm PVC pipe for proper air circulation in between the rolls.



Conclusion


This set up can cool the water  to about 27 C which is the average wet bulb temperature of our ambient air. Constant feed of light Limewater and kalkwasser is all that is necessary to replenish lost water.  I used the setup for about 2 years without any other filters although I stored some dead corals inside the pump sump.

Other Relevant Sites
tinyurl :  https://tinyurl.com/y994fau6




Monday, March 27, 2017

Aquarium Chiller Resun CL650- Erratic Temperature Readings

27 March 2017

The chiller  controller has erratic temperature readings.  It fluctuated between 3 to 4 degrees C erratically.  As a result,  the chiller did not start and stop properly.  Otherwise,  the Chiller worked normally.

What Could Go Wrong?

 1.  Dry Joints -  They are often responsible for erratic performance and often give erroneous readings;

 2.  Faulty Capacitors - They will lost the filtering and cause voltages to fluctuate;  thereby,  giving erroneous temperature readings.

How to Dismantle and Remove the Controller?

The controller is flushed mounted with a dust protective plastic cover in the inside of the chiller casing.  The cover is secured to the chiller casing by four clips evenly distributed around the peripheral of the plastic cover.

To remove the cover,  one will need to push the clip inwards using one finger and pull the cover down at the same time using another hand.  Releasing the clips will need some care and patients,  releasing the clips one at a time.  Some reported that there might be four screws securing the plastic cover and they must be removed first.



Once the plastic cover is removed,  one can pull up the controller from the top of the chiller casing.  Observe and make notes on how the wirings are connected.

What Went Wrong?

Bench inspection suspected that there are a few dry joints.  However,  resoldered those joints did stabliise the readings and prevent much voltage fluctuations in the supply line but the controller continued to give erratic readings.



Finally,  bench testing proved that one of the two capacitors shown below had a deteriorated capacitance giving only 15 uf instead of the 400 uf.  Replacing the 400 uf capacitor fixed the erratic reading.


Degree of Difficulty

It was  not difficult to replace the capacitors but the 2 tier circuit board arrangement made de-soldering and soldering pretty difficult to carry out to test and replace those capacitors.

What to get a Replacement?

For those who need a replacement for the controller,  they should be able to find it on TaoBao (link) for about RMB200.  Write to them make an enquiry at this website.  Alternatively,  one could replace the controller.  

 Other Relevant Sites
tinyurl : https://tinyurl.com/yae4zudq

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